Artificial pond in your garden. Part 2
5 June 2019 17:57
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Tips for making a pond. Part 2.
With or without a fountain?
How to make a pond with your own hands. Part 2.
Published in "Flora-Price " magazine, July, 2004, St. Petersburg
Suppose that, after reading an article in the last issue of the magazine about the device of the reservoir in the garden, you have decided on the questions of where and what kind of reservoir you want to make. Now it is appropriate to talk about how to implement what you have in mind. First, you should choose a way to waterproof your pond because, without this, the water will "run away" into the ground. There are several ways to do this:
The required amount of film can be calculated as follows:
But the pond is not filled at once. First, so much water is poured so that it fills the reservoir by about 1/3. After that, gently press the film to the whole bottom of the pond with your feet. After a while, fill the pond, giving the air under the film an opportunity to come out. The water is turned off when its level is 5 cm below the ground level. After that, the foil is cut off.
The edges of the film can simply be masked with a layer of gravel or stones. It is not necessary to lay stones in a continuous chain, close to each other. More aesthetic and natural is sparse as if a random arrangement of individual boulders of different sizes, between which you can plant water-loving and marsh plants.
Since under the weight of the water coating will still take some time to subside, the design of the banks should be postponed for 1-2 days.
Another option is to camouflage the edges of the film with a ditch dug around the pond. This ditch is filled with a planting mixture and planted with ground cover plants, which will quickly grow and hide the edges of the foil. If a lawn surrounds the pond, then the edges of the foil can be buried 8-10 cm below the level of the lawn.
Wooden trim has a particular danger because, after long rains, it becomes slippery.
If you decide to plant the pond with aquatic plants, then the pit should have a stepped bottom because different plants prefer different depths. The slope between the steps should not exceed 30°; otherwise, there may be a risk of shifting the ground. When selecting plants, please pay attention to the minimum depth at which they can grow.
Plants can be planted directly into the reservoir substrate or baskets placed on the bottom. Baskets are handy if the pond is small and you want to limit the rapid growth of vegetation. Also, heat-loving plants planted in baskets can be moved to a room where the temperature does not drop below freezing for the winter and then return to the pond in the spring.
Aquatic plants are not only outwardly attractive but also vital to the overall health of the pond. Without underwater algae to help enrich the water with oxygen and plants to float on the water's surface and create a shield from the sun's rays, the water quickly becomes muddy.
A harmonious state of the aquatic environment results from the interaction of all components: water, soil, plants, fish, and organic matter, resulting in a mini-ecosystem. It is important to maintain this delicate biological equilibrium to prevent overpopulation and turbidity in the pond. Here are the rules to follow to create the most favorable conditions for plants and fish, namely to achieve suppression of green algae growth:
In summer, the water in the reservoir evaporates relatively quickly, so it must be refilled. Water is added in small portions. Here it is desirable to abandon the garden hose connected to the tap. Use water that has settled and been heated in the sun. The water must flow in jets, which can be arranged by stretching a piece of burlap over the drainage hole.
You can leave water in the reservoir for the winter, and to reduce the pressure of ice on the walls (and to save the film from excessive loads) throw any wooden or plastic bottle into the reservoir: they will take some of the pressure on themselves. If you decide to drain for the winter and don't drain in the pond, use a garden hose. To do this, one end of the hose is lowered to the bottom of the deepest part of the pond, and the other end is put in place below the bottom of the pond, where the water will be pumped out. Begin the process of draining the water will probably need to be forced, and then the water itself will overflow into the place below. A sacking or safety net should be stretched over the inlet opening to prevent the hose from getting clogged and prevent fish from getting sucked into it.
The list of tips given in the article can not be complete, as the reservoir's creation depends on both the material possibilities and your imagination. We wish you to implement the most exciting ideas for your pleasure and to the surprise of your guests and neighbors.
Т. Fedorova, SPF "Shar"
How to make a pond with your own hands. Part 2.
Published in "Flora-Price " magazine, July, 2004, St. Petersburg
Suppose that, after reading an article in the last issue of the magazine about the device of the reservoir in the garden, you have decided on the questions of where and what kind of reservoir you want to make. Now it is appropriate to talk about how to implement what you have in mind. First, you should choose a way to waterproof your pond because, without this, the water will "run away" into the ground. There are several ways to do this:
- You can make a pond with concrete or clay. It is necessary to put a film under them, as these materials tend to crack over time.
- It is convenient to use prefabricated forms for ponds. They can be made of different materials. Note, however, that PVC forms and being environmentally unsafe may also crack in the cold. Disadvantage: Consider the fact that you have no opportunity to give the pond those shapes that fit into the landscape of your garden in the ready-made form.
- One of the easiest and most economical ways is to use plastic sheeting. Choose a film specifically designed for waterproofing because ordinary polyethylene films can deteriorate after 1 - 2 seasons, and all your work will be in vain. To avoid this nuisance, use long-lasting films that will last you ten or more years. They are elastic and easy to lay on the relief. An essential characteristic of our climate is the frost resistance of the film.
- It does not require extensive work (create relief and layout the film, and the pool is ready!)
- It is always easy to dismantle the pond or change the configuration (the film retains its elasticity). It is also not too difficult to remove the film from the reservoir for the winter if there is such a desire or need.
- Ponds, created with the help of the film, are durable (guaranteed for ten years of service in the street without draining the water for the winter at temperatures from -80 to +60 °C)
- Inexpensive.
- Eco-friendly material - plants and fish feel great!
- At the bottom of the pit under the film, it is desirable to lay out a 5-cm bed of peat or sand.
The required amount of film can be calculated as follows:
- film length = length of the pond + two depths + 30 - 50 cm at each edge
- film width = the width of the pond + two depths + 30 - 50 cm for each edge.
But the pond is not filled at once. First, so much water is poured so that it fills the reservoir by about 1/3. After that, gently press the film to the whole bottom of the pond with your feet. After a while, fill the pond, giving the air under the film an opportunity to come out. The water is turned off when its level is 5 cm below the ground level. After that, the foil is cut off.
The edges of the film can simply be masked with a layer of gravel or stones. It is not necessary to lay stones in a continuous chain, close to each other. More aesthetic and natural is sparse as if a random arrangement of individual boulders of different sizes, between which you can plant water-loving and marsh plants.
Since under the weight of the water coating will still take some time to subside, the design of the banks should be postponed for 1-2 days.
Another option is to camouflage the edges of the film with a ditch dug around the pond. This ditch is filled with a planting mixture and planted with ground cover plants, which will quickly grow and hide the edges of the foil. If a lawn surrounds the pond, then the edges of the foil can be buried 8-10 cm below the level of the lawn.
Wooden trim has a particular danger because, after long rains, it becomes slippery.
If you decide to plant the pond with aquatic plants, then the pit should have a stepped bottom because different plants prefer different depths. The slope between the steps should not exceed 30°; otherwise, there may be a risk of shifting the ground. When selecting plants, please pay attention to the minimum depth at which they can grow.
Plants can be planted directly into the reservoir substrate or baskets placed on the bottom. Baskets are handy if the pond is small and you want to limit the rapid growth of vegetation. Also, heat-loving plants planted in baskets can be moved to a room where the temperature does not drop below freezing for the winter and then return to the pond in the spring.
Aquatic plants are not only outwardly attractive but also vital to the overall health of the pond. Without underwater algae to help enrich the water with oxygen and plants to float on the water's surface and create a shield from the sun's rays, the water quickly becomes muddy.
A harmonious state of the aquatic environment results from the interaction of all components: water, soil, plants, fish, and organic matter, resulting in a mini-ecosystem. It is important to maintain this delicate biological equilibrium to prevent overpopulation and turbidity in the pond. Here are the rules to follow to create the most favorable conditions for plants and fish, namely to achieve suppression of green algae growth:
- Remove fallen leaves and other debris from the water immediately-if they begin to decompose, contaminating the water.
- Do not use peat, garden compost, or manure when planting.
- It is good if there are plants in the pond that produce oxygen, which inhibits algae growth, which, in turn, helps keep the water clean. In addition, oxygen is necessary for fish.
- Please do not give the fish more food than they can consume in five minutes. Remove any leftover food.
In summer, the water in the reservoir evaporates relatively quickly, so it must be refilled. Water is added in small portions. Here it is desirable to abandon the garden hose connected to the tap. Use water that has settled and been heated in the sun. The water must flow in jets, which can be arranged by stretching a piece of burlap over the drainage hole.
You can leave water in the reservoir for the winter, and to reduce the pressure of ice on the walls (and to save the film from excessive loads) throw any wooden or plastic bottle into the reservoir: they will take some of the pressure on themselves. If you decide to drain for the winter and don't drain in the pond, use a garden hose. To do this, one end of the hose is lowered to the bottom of the deepest part of the pond, and the other end is put in place below the bottom of the pond, where the water will be pumped out. Begin the process of draining the water will probably need to be forced, and then the water itself will overflow into the place below. A sacking or safety net should be stretched over the inlet opening to prevent the hose from getting clogged and prevent fish from getting sucked into it.
The list of tips given in the article can not be complete, as the reservoir's creation depends on both the material possibilities and your imagination. We wish you to implement the most exciting ideas for your pleasure and to the surprise of your guests and neighbors.
Т. Fedorova, SPF "Shar"
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